I called my parents on Christmas Day.
Mum and I don’t celebrate Christmas but Dad does, so I wanted to wish a Merry Christmas to Dad. Besides, we spent twenty happy Christmases together before I moved out, so this is a time when, one would hope, we’re all thinking of each other.
My first mistake went like this: “Did Dad enjoy his Christmas dinner… um, lunch? No, sorry, dinner?”
Growing up in the Midlands, the midday meal was called “dinner” and the evening meal was called, inexplicably, “tea.” Now that I live in the world, I say “lunch” and “dinner” like everyone else. This seems to annoy my parents. Maybe it’s my imagination, but I think they think I’m being pretentious when I say “lunch” and “dinner” when really I just want to be understood by as many people as possible. It’s the same reason I use Greenwich Meantime and the Gregorian Calendar.
But out of respect for the house, I usually code-switch to the dinner/tea system when I talk to my folks. Only this time, I’d panicked and tripped over my own feet. I was like a cheating spouse who’d accidentally called his wife “Frank” and then tried to cover it up. It was a disaster.
“I don’t know why people make so much fuss over Christmas Dinner,” griped my mother.
“Well,” I said, “because it’s a special day, I suppose. People look forward to it.”
And here was my second mistake. I thought I was representing the views of “people” but she saw “representing the views of” to mean “siding with” and heard not the word “people” but the word “Dad” whose special meal she’d had to cook.
“So what did he have?” I asked, digging my grave ever deeper into cold winter soil.
“Pork, sprouts, potatoes, parsnips…”
“Parsnips!” I said. “Hah! Listen to this…”
And I told the story of my wife’s office party. There’d been a row, apparently, over the importance or otherwise of parsnips to Christmas Dinner.
“Isn’t that silly?” I said to Mum, “Who gets their knickers in a twist over parsnips? I’ve never heard of a Christmas parsnip.”
“Yes,” she said, “it’s like sprouts.”
“What? No,” I said, “It’s not like sprouts at all.”
“How is it not like sprouts?”
“Because brussels sprouts are a load-bearing Christmas tradition. Aren’t they? Everyone jokes about how nobody likes sprouts but you have to eat them because it’s Christmas. And then they eat curried turkey and turkey sandwiches and turkey crumble through to Easter.”
“Turkey’s not for Christmas Dinner,” said my mum, “that’s American. People only started going on about turkey twenty years ago. In England we have chicken.”
Office bods bickering about parsnips was nothing on this. I’d never heard such shit in all my life.
“I’ve never heard such shit in all my life,” I said.
“The English thing to have for Christmas,” she insisted, “is a roast chicken. A capon.”
“Maybe a duck?” I offered. “Or a goose?”
“A chicken!”
“Chicken,” I said, “is the most boring, everyday meat imaginable. Why would anyone have chicken on Christmas Day?”
“Because they like it,” she said firmly.
“Because they… because they like it?” I found myself stop-starting in the incredulous tone of Harold Steptoe. “Mum, Christmas isn’t about what you like. It’s about tradition. People like bubble gum but it’s not generally seen as essential to Christmas Dinner.”
“Move on,” my Dad was saying in the background, “Move on.” He had the tone of a level-headed Jerry Springer referee calmly positioning his body between warring whitetrash.
I’d been doing some simple observational comedy about taxonomies but Dad was right. It had become an argument. About Christmas Dinner. Between two vegetarian non-observers who neither eat it nor care about it.
How had we drifted into such a toboggan crash? Maybe it was the obvious wrongness of the chicken comment: my mother was essentially pointing to a cat and saying “dog” with complete confidence while simultaneously being allowed to vote in elections. But there was a body of dark matter in the conversation, which my telescopes could only detect the edges of, something that made me more uncomfortable and confused than a simple mistake should.
But of course, it was the “fuss.” We’d begun with Mum’s objection to the “fuss” of Christmas Dinner. But if a traditional Christmas Dinner, as she said, consists of a roast chicken with potatoes, parsnips and entirely optional brussels sprouts, it wouldn’t be a fuss at all. It would be one step up from a bag of chips.
So the conversation was complete gibberish, probably all because I’d clumsily barged into the room and used the word “dinner,” inadvertently exposing myself as a woke class traitor.
I excused myself because It’s a Wonderful Life was on, a film that probably strikes my mother as eccentric when, really, festive TV schedules should be largely devoted to Spring Watch.